China (2018)

China 2018

China International Aviation & Aerospace Exhibition

China 2018

China is developing their aviation industry in big steps. A lot of this was displayed at the China Air Show 2018 at Zhuhai. And we were there to witness it all. China has a lot to offer to aviation enthusiasts, and whilst we don’t see base visits or regular air shows happening for the foreseeable future, it certainly wasn’t 4Aviation’s first outing to China. Having said that, this was the second time we ventured to the China Air Show in Zhuhai, a venue comparable with Le Bourget and Farnborough, to name just two.

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6/7 November 2018

The first surprise for the group who had decided to travel with us to Beijing presented itself at the very beginning, at Schiphol on Tuesday 6 November. For the regular traveller the red-and-white meeting point in the central hall is as common as can be, so it can be quite confusing realising you are actually at the right spot but with the large white and red blocks gone. Despite this, the group had no problems meeting up and we were off to Beijing on time, with a comfortable transfer at Frankfurt. By the time our Air China Boeing landed at Beijing Capital Airport it was early Wednesday morning (7 November). It took quite some time for part of the group to pass the Chinese immigration, not that we had any troubles, but… it just took time. So much even that our waiting luggage had even almost been moved off to the lost luggage section, if it hadn’t been for a couple of our guys who were paying attention and were able to prevent this. Also, in the meantime our Chinese tour guide who would accompany us during our stay in Beijing had been getting worried about our no-showing. But everything worked out in the end, and by the time we could board the waiting coach the group was almost complete (one last member was about to join us at the Datangshan museum) and ready for action. Unfortunately, one piece of luggage had not arrived, and it would take several days and a lot of effort before it would be reunited with its owner. First stop: Datangshan (or “Xiaotangshanzhen” in the new translation), the huge PLAAF (People’s Liberation Army Air Force) museum, renowned for its rows of “MiGs” and other rare aircraft. Susan, our Chinese guide, had no idea what to expect, we were certainly not anything like any other “Beijing tourists” she had ever met! She thought 90 minutes would be enough for the museum, we quickly changed that to 4 hours! Also, she was a bit worried how to guide the group through the museum and was very relieved when we explained to her that “aircraft photographers don’t need to be guided here, they just split up and race off in all directions, in a cloud of dust!” Four hours is really the minimum amount of time to spend here. Fortunately, the weather was good, if a bit chilly, and at first there wasn’t a big crowd. That changed when busloads of school kids arrived, all wearing yellow, and all jumping at the unexpected chance to (try) talking English to foreigners. And have their photo taken with them. It is safe to say many 4Aviation travellers are now featured in the photo collection of many more Chinese teenagers…

Time to do some real tourism. The Great Wall should not be missed, specially not when you’re only an hour drive away. We went to the Mutianyu section, which is a bit further away than the more popular Badaling section, but with much less visitors. Yes, it is still a touristic destination, with shops, restaurants (note: the Subway restaurant is not a real Subway!) and a cable car going all the way up the mountain and to the Great Wall. We were treated with splendid views and almost no other tourists. Those amongst us who fancied a good hike over a section of the wall had 90 minutes to do so, a rewarding walk indeed! After our visit to the wall it was about time to have dinner, fortunately our guide knew of a “very good” restaurant nearby. And it actually was, both nearby and pretty good. Ordering food and drinks took a little while, but once that was accomplished our two round tables were stacked with tasty food and beverages in no time. Last fact of the day was getting to our Beijing hotel and checking in. After finally everyone was in the room he or she was supposed to be in, it was goodnight and sleep well after a looooongggg day.

8 November 2018

Day #2 in Beijing, Thursday 8 November, more touristic things to do, and hopefully some airplanes too. It was only a short drive by coach to the Red Square, also known as Tiananmen square, where another surprise awaited us: the square itself was closed off to all public. Apparently, Raoul Castro was paying Chairman Xi a visit and needed the space for some military ceremonies. Thus, we were delegated to admire the square from the sidewalk, together with the other thousands of Chinese tourists. It is a must (because Charmain Mao had said so) for every one of the 1.4 billion Chinese to visit the Red Square and the Forbidden City at least once in his or her lifetime, and what a bummer when on your visit the square is closed off… Fortunately at the adjacent Forbidden City it was business as usual, and in no time we were (again, for some) walking on the film set of the movie “The Last Emperor”. It seemed like half of China had decided to do the same today, including (again!) busloads of school children with the specific assignment to harass as many foreigners as possible. Armed with a questionnaire in English they had to ask these questions in “Engwish” and write down the answers themselves. All very fine…but after a while “dodging a student” became our favourite occupation at the Forbidden City! We were in a bit of a rush anyway because the intention was to go to the recently reopened Military Museum, and we had just enough time to do so before we needed to head to the airport for our flight to Zhuhai. Next surprise: on arrival the Military Museum turned out to be unexpectedly and unannounced closed today. Welcome to China, these things just happen here. Time for Plan B: let’s go to the Civil Aviation Museum instead. On the plus side: this one is located near the airport, so no need to rush anymore, and the quest for the lost luggage could continue whilst the rest of the group visited the museum. And despite the name…it does hold some military aircraft as well.

Before we boarded our flight to Zhuhai it was time to say goodbye to our Beijing guide Susan, and to the chilly Beijing weather. Zhuhai promised to be much more pleasant with temperatures bordering 30 degrees Celsius. After an almost 4-hour flight (it’s a big country!) on arrival in Zhuhai we were greeted by our new guide Leslie, and another four group members who had travelled to Zhuhai on their own. Check in into our hotel again took some effort, this time without a translator at hand it would have been a nightmare because no one else spoke a word of English, but we had everyone a room in the end. A good thing, because we were all pretty tired and would have an early start the next morning.

9 November 2018

The Friday (9 November) was to be a day spend outside of the fence at Zhuhai airport where the Air Show China was being held. Best spot to go is at the south side of the airfield, either on top of an apartment complex or an abandoned hotel, or on the hillside to the rear of those two. Unfortunately, there is only a single road leading to that location, and we had already been made aware that likely the police would close off that road to all traffic very early in the morning. Leslie, our guide, however didn’t believe this could be true, and anyway she would talk us past the police blockade. Well… it was past eight in the morning by the time we had done some shopping (not everyone had apparently been able to do so the night before) and we were at the roadblock. Things didn’t look good from there on. First our coach driver got himself ushered into the adjacent carpark where we got stuck in traffic… twice. And by the time we got to the actual roadblock, there was no way we could pass, not by coach and not even on foot. Chinese police aren’t the friendliest, or willing to listen to any argument. Time for a Plan B, again. We drove off from the airfield and took a detour, so we would approach from the north western side this time. Hopefully from there we could get ourselves near the runway approach, our only hope for success left. Fortunately, this turned out to be not a problem at all, it only took a twenty-minute walk to a nice spot near the runway approach. Not quite what we had been expecting for today, but it would do and there would be more days to come. One adventurous member of the group decided to take the risk and walk the 4+ kilometres to the abandoned hotel. Not only himself but everyone was relieved to hear this only took him fifty minutes, so we at least had a backup option for the days to come…and we would need it!

Anyway, the flying display was opened by the “August 1st” display team with their J-10 fighters (for readers unknown with the type: it looks a bit like the unlawful child from a Typhoon and F-16 affair), followed by “Red Falcon” with their JL-8 trainers. Another highlight were two Pakistani JF-17 Thunder fighters and a flying-only appearance by three brand-new J-20 stealth fighters. These did not come very near our spot but were nevertheless a magnificent sight to behold! In between we had also been entertained by an arriving PLAAF Boeing 737. For an event the size of Air Show China, time wise the flying displays are pretty sober however, and after the second Pakistani JF-17 display the civilian airliners started coming in and departing again. At dusk we finally boarded our coach again and drove back to our hotel for a well-earned meal, some drinks and a good sleep.

10 November 2018

Today, Saturday 10 November, we would not be spending our time outside the fences, but actually at the China Air Show itself. Here the benefits of the Chinese tight control over society and events clearly came to light, because you can say whatever you want about the way China is going forward, but it sure is well-organised and thought over. No traffic jams (because all 80.000 visitors to the airshow were obliged to go by bus), no queues, … and no tickets? Our guide Leslie had bought our entrance tickets beforehand (tickets could only be pre-ordered) but by the time we were near the entrance it was a bit unclear where the actual tickets were. Turned out that there were no paper tickets at all, everyone’s ID card or passport was the entrance ticket. This meant an efficient entry processing, although we as foreigners did have a “special queue” and of course were “secretly” photographed one by one. By the time we were on the showground there was not a real crowd (yet!) and still a hint of sunshine. It would be clouded for the rest of the day, not so good for photographing the static aircraft of course, but sort of a blessing regarding the flying display because otherwise the sun would have been right in our faces. At least the static displays were reasonably photograph-able in the morning, but this being a trade fair not unlike Le Bourget and Farnborough, there was often also a lot of “crap” in front of the aircraft, and salesmen having a nice sit down right in front of their shiny new jet. Of course, the PLAAF was also well presented with their (more or less) latest toys, including a big H-6 bomber. Its design pedigree is still clearly dating back to the 1950’s Russian Tu-16 Badger, but completely re-engineered and re-engined. Fans of unmanned aircraft had a field day too, and so did people interested in tanks and other military vehicles, both outside and inside the many display halls. By the time the flying display started, again with the “August 1st” team, it was really crowded! Near the area were the team was parked up on the flight line, there was literally no way to move but being pushed along by the masses. Fortunately, in other areas, especially the ones as far away as possible from the “August 1st” and “Red Falcon” teams, it was much more agreeable.

The highlight of the day was again the J-20 stealth fighters appearing on the horizon for a couple of minutes of fun and tight turns. This time there were “only” two but at least we got a much better look at them, compared with yesterday. First, they did a couple of breaks and left-hand turns together, then one departed upwards and the show was continued by the remaining jet, still doing almost nothing else but tight left-hand turns, finishing off with a hard climb into the clouds, not to be seen again. What a magnificent jet! Big and brutal, with a deep growling sound fitting to its appearance. No wonder the Chinese crowd was going ecstatic. For them it is undoubtedly the summa of Chinese prowess, high-tech and an omen of Chinese ambitions on the world stage…

We had all day to spend at the airshow, so there was no rush. Or so we thought. Because whilst most of us were planning to “do the static show” again after most of the general public had departed, specially the PLAAF aircraft of course, it came a bit as a nasty surprise when the ground crews had already started to cover up the aircraft early. This was not expected, and meant we had to rush after all to get some of the aircraft without covers over the nose. The JL-8’s of “Red Falcon” were even completely wrapped up under covers, and so too where the individual missiles on the JH-7 fighter bomber. A funny sight, but we would have thought it much funnier if they had left the jets uncovered for a bit longer. Anyway, everyone was back in the bus nicely on time, and after a short detour to the passenger air terminal, even the long missing suitcase was on board. On the way back to our hotel it became clear that our intention to depart our hotel very, very early next morning, so we would be passing the road blockade before it was closed off at around six, had been torpedoed by a new Chinese law which forbids tourist coaches to drive during the night. At first, we didn’t believe this to be true and only an excuse by the driver, so he wouldn’t have to get out of bed in the middle of the night, but it actually turned out to be true… No reasons given why this new law was drafted, most likely officially for safety but is it also conceivable that it is yet another instrument to keep track of the whereabouts of foreigners. Yes, if you think about it, China can get a little bit creepy… So, we had to rethink our plans for tomorrow. Time for yet another “Plan B”.

11 November 2018

At least, we knew that we in any way could get to the area opposite the airfield by taking the long walk around the airfield from the north western side on Sunday 11 November. For this our coach needed to depart our hotel at 06:30 and we would comfortably be at our desired location before nine. However, some preferred a very early rise and a taxi ride instead, and for them three shared taxis at our hotel at 04:30 were ordered. A good thing that Leslie was able to arrange all this without too much effort, a less than good thing that our tour leader got a telephone call in the middle of the night from the hotel desk with “Your taxi is here, hurry up!”, and he wasn’t even going by taxi! But, everything worked out in the end, and even one-person oversleeping didn’t prevent every single one of us to be in place at nine o’clock. And it must be said, the long walk was a breeze. Leslie turned out to be a good sport as well and enjoyed the hike, but not the dogs barking at every passing tourist. Once we got there, there was a choice of three locations: either on the rooftop of an abandoned hotel, on the rooftop of an adjacent apartment building, or on the hillside a bit further to the back. For all three locations there is an entrance fee (by clever local entrepreneurs) and certainly on the rooftops there is limited space. The rooftops offer a closer view of the active runway, whilst the hillside is equally good, if not better, to photograph the flying displays and take-offs. On the hillside the local businessman, looking like Confucius but moving about on a scooter, initially tried to charge us 200 Yuan each, but we eventually got a group discount, free bottles of water and the promise (which he kept) that he would get us some ice-cold beer in the afternoon! Besides that, there was room to move about and more than enough chairs to sit and stand on.

The flying display was more or less the same as the days before, but now in much better view, and the sun shining in our back. Rumours had been buzzing about “a special event” on Sunday, at first thought to be some sort of formation fly-by because of the PLAAF’s anniversary but was by now known to be about the expected J-20s today: for the very first time they would open their internal missile bays in public. For us not quite as exciting as a hoped-for H-6 formation flypast, but the Chinese went mad. So, did we when the J-20s showed up: not two, not three, but four! Two of them immediately buggered off on the first pass, but the other two gave a very nice show, with indeed a pass with everything opened up and hanging out. Definitely the highlight of the day! Today the Y-20 (C-17 clone) decided to do a display too, and so did the two demo teams and two Pakistani JF-17s. All in all, a very enjoyable day, complemented by cold beers for those up the hillside and fancying one (or two). Contrary to the day before most PLAAF aircraft on the show static were not covered up but instead towed to the heavily guarded adjacent ramp. After that, engines were run up as if some jets were planning to depart, but this did not happen and looks like typical Chinese procedure. It could have been nice to be down there when the towing started, maybe… Fortunately our coach had no trouble reaching us after the flying display had ended and the road block was lifted. Let’s go “home” and some (more) beers!

12/13 November 2018

What a difference a day can make. Today, 12 November, was departure day, for both the air show and ourselves. Also, the weather had had a turn again, still hot but with much more haze, eventually turning into a grey murk. No more roadblocks today so we could all drive comfortably by coach to the same spots as yesterday. Chinese photographers apparently don’t care much for departure days, because there were none. But “the hillside manager” was there and again tried to take our money for just being there, and again we struck a deal with a discount and (this time free) cold beers in the afternoon. And we had tea. Of course. For some unexplained reason the PLAAF was slow in getting their aircraft in the air, in the morning only the Z-10 attack helicopter departed, plus some civil stuff. It was only after 2 o’clock, with the sun turning in our disadvantage and the murkiness getting worse, that they started to move. The two Y-20s left, the Y-9 transport and KJ-500 (Y-9 AWACS) as well, and also the JH-7 which does look like a big Jaguar. Also, the JL-9/FTC-2000 left, but this is a demonstrator aircraft owned by the factory and not a military jet as such. Fascinating to see the Chinese are still developing jets based on the original MiG-21!

At 4 our journey home really started, well for the most of us anyway. The coach took us to an airport hotel where one of our group would stay the night and leave for home on his own the day after; and for the rest, after tough negotiations at the hotel desk, we had a couple of rooms to our disposal where we could take a shower and freshen up, ready for the long flights home. At the airport itself we had to say goodbye to Leslie and again a number of fellow travellers, with a last group photo, and check in. Unexpectedly, this turned out to be a bit of a drama, apparently personnel had no clue how to deal with international connecting flights, or something like that, and it took a lot of desperate looks, shouting (!), angry Chinese in the ever growing queues behind us, and finally someone who had any idea what was going on, for each and every one of us to get our boarding cards. Not everything was 100%, but at least we would be off, and the still missing boarding cards for connecting flights could easily be picked up at the next transit.

The next morning (Tuesday 13 November), after a long night due to the time difference between China and home, and after “losing” yet more group members in Beijing and Frankfurt, the remainder of the group was eagerly awaiting the arrival of our luggage, because who knows what the chaos during check-in in Zhuhai had done to our luggage? Luckily our trust in Chinese efficiency was quickly restored when everyone’s luggage showed up. Finally, the handshakes, hugs, thanks and goodbye’s…and that’s all folks, another rewarding and memorable tour behind the belt. It was a challenge at times, but worth every bit!

China 2018

China 2018

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China (2018)

China 2018

China 2018

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